Moto Guzzi Maintenance - Recently Updated Pages

Moto Guzzi Metal Stone and Breva 750 Maintenance

Mackerz — Sun, 27 Dec 2009 03:29:19 CST

1. Metal Stone Engine Oil

I change my oil every 5000km and the filter every 10,000km. After trying a few different oil types I've settled on Penrite Diesel 20W-60. This is a CH-4 oil with all the good stuff for top end protection. A lot of Hardly riders use it:

This is a turbo diesel oil and so far above the specifications of the crap some shops sell as "genuine" bike oil it's not funny. Diesels have shell bearing cranks and high compressions, so a good diesel oil has to be able to withstand much more flat bearing hammering than any petrol engine oil. But a turbo sits in the exhaust and spins to five figure numbers all day so the same oil has to cope with extreme heat and revolutions too. Having ruined one Harley motor on synthetic oil and "heard" the difference in a few more, I wouldn't go near it for anything other than sheer racing performance. Fact is the motor I blew was running harder and faster than it ever had on synthetic oil but there's very little drag because there's very little oil between the surfaces! [John West , Live to Ride, July 2007.]

(Some more details here: http://www.shellusserver.com/qa/answerresult.php?rowid=169 and here http://www.shellusserver.com/qa/answerresult.php?rowid=239)

Look for the CH or CI rated oils because they have high zinc concentrations. Some of the CJ oils do too but most don't.

Of the petrol-engine oils, you need an SE, SF or SG rated oil, which are becoming increasingly harder to find. Check, also, the SM oils - the low zinc levels only apply to 0w-, 5w-, and 10w-30 oils. If an SM oil meets ACEA A2/B2, A3/B3 or A3/B4, its zinc level will not have changed; many are well over the 1000ppm, which is needed for our Guzzis.

Penrite recommend their synthetic SIN 10W-70 for the big Guzzis with extended drain intervals. But I prefer more regular changes, and the SIN is expensive. The SIN 10W-70 does meet the latest Moto Guzzi recommended specifications, though, being high in zinc at 0.12ppm.

I measured out 3 litres of oil and, with a new filter and after firing up the bike, it came to the top mark of the dipstick. I've never had any come out of the breather hose.

Oil Filter Having used Ryco air and oil filters in my cars for the last 30 years, I use Ryco oil filters in the Stone: Z418, Z82, Z87A will fit. (The Z82 has now been superseded by the Z418). Other filters which fit include the Valvoline VO22, Harley 63798-99, HiFlo 551 and UFI 2328700. I've seen pics of filters spinning off Cali's - and they've all been UFIs (for example, here). I can get Rycos anywhere but UFIs are more expensive and take more effort to obtain. The dealer sometimes only stocks HiFlo filters but I haven't tried them.

Gearbox Oil Change: I use Penrite Hypoid 80W-90.
Rear Drive Oil: I use Penrite Hypoid 80W-90. with squirt of Molybond Formula 2.5.
Front Fork Oil Change: I use Penrite ATF DX-111.
Spark Plugs: NGK BPR6ES. The 'R' is for radio repression, so I've used NGK BP6ES, too. Changed every 10,000km.

2. Breva 750 Engine Oil and Filter Change

The manual calls for oil and filter changes at 7500km. We've brought the Breva into line with the Stone - reduced the oil change to 5000km and extended the filter to 10,000km. In the Breva I use Penrite Diesel 15 15W-50, another CH-4 oil. I haven't found an oil filter other than the Moto Guzzi issued UFI.

When I last changed the oil and filter, I carefully measured out 2L of oil and poured it in. Before firing up the bike - that is, before the filter was filled - I checked the level. It came up exactly to the top of the flat on the dipstick. After firing up and letting the oil settle, it came up exactly to the top ridge of the dipstick. Bike was exactly level and vertical.

Gearbox Oil Change: I use Penrite Hypoid 80W-90. There's been some transmission noise in fifth gear so, after discussion with Penrite's Technical Service, I've been using Transaxle 75 which has improved gear shifting.

Rear Drive Oil: I use Penrite Hypoid 85W-140 with squirt of Molybond Formula 2.5.
Front Fork Oil Change: I use Penrite MB15
Spark Plugs: NGK BR8ES. Changed every 10,000km.

Encountered Problems and Upgrades

1. Metal Stone

Slight fuel leak: fuel leaked into the tool tray not long after picking up the bike. Fixed by dealer in 5 minutes.

Flat tyre: the front tyre went flat on the way home from work. Turned out to be a series of pin holes at a join in the Brazilian-made tube.

Rear LH indicator: a common problem, this broke off at the mount. Fixed by inserting a long bolt through the housing. Take off the number-plate backing-plate, under the brake lights. Get a long drill bit and drill through the brass fitting and into the baffles. Insert a long, thin bolt. Eventually did the same to the right-hand rear indicator.

Rear Shocks: I don't know what Moto Guzzi were thinking with their rear shocks, but a couple of lengths of 4x2 20-year old jarrah floor joist would have done a better job. I replaced them with Ikon shock absorbers. The OEM shocks were hard and jarred the spine over rough roads - the Ikons are still firm but don't have that spine-jarring finish. Well worth their reasonable price. Addendum: after 40,000km or so, the left Ikon started leaking. Will return them to be rebuilt.

Clock: the 40km/hr speed limit around schools a certain times of the day is a pain. So is having to end a ride to get to work for an evening shift! I mounted a Marlin's clock on the handlebar for this reason. None exactly fit the Stone's non-standard 30mm handlebars, but trimming the clock's silicon collar sorted that problem out.

Gear linkage came off the spindle in the back of the gear box. Tightened up the bolt, check it regularly since but it hasn't happened again. This Allen-head bolt is damned hard to get to. This has happened to a number of Stones that I'm aware of and could cause a serious accident if it happens at the wrong time. I was nearly rear-ended by a following car as I came out of a corner. It happened to a mate's Stone just as he commenced descending down Mt Hotham. Check it before it happens to you!

Power Commander PCIII: I fitted this out of curiosity and because tune-ups didn't get rid of the slightly "snatchy" throttle responses. It has made a marked improvement in the bike's throttle response. Power delivery is smooth right up through the power band with no flat spots. A dynotune would improve it further, I'm told. It takes about 30 seconds to fit - simply plug into the bike's ECU behind the LHS cover. I obtained mine from Guzzitech in the US who are the Guzzi-gurus for PCIIIs.

I recently had the PCIII dyno-tuned by Brad the Bike Boy in Melbourne, who tuned each cylinder individually. Another Improvement in responsiveness!

Lafranconi mufflers and a Guzzitech crossover tube: extravagant I know, but fitted these and found smoother acceleration and a more interesting sound. Bought the mufflers second-hand on Ebay.

Speedo cable: the cable broke at 35,000km. Replaced cable - and the speedo was slow. Removed speedo and took it into Howard Instruments for repair. They reckon that it's not the cable breaking that jams the speedo, but the speedo jamming which breaks the cable.

Swingarm Seepage: I noticed a slight dribble from the rubber plug on the RH swingarm chrome cover. Upon inspection the chrome nut was filled with grey lubricant. Peter Roper at Guzzi Exchange wrote this. Everything seems OK so far.

Tight fuel cap: another common fault, the fuel cap becomes increasingly difficult to turn with the key. The problem is that the plastic in the cap swells from contact with petrol. For 40,000km I persisted with squirting Inox into the key-hole, but the problem slowly worsened. Eventually I took the cap apart and filed the offending green plastic where it turns against the alloy casing. You'll need a big bastard to file it, though - that plastic is hard! Problem solved in 10 minutes

Relays: the Yuasa battery never did sound emphatic, and played up during winter. I replaced it with an Odyssey PC545. This didn't fix an annoying slow-cranking starter motor which slowly worsened over several years. It manifested itself as a flat battery on a cold start, but seemed OK during the day when the bike was warm. I cleaned every terminal and ran a different ground lead but without success. Eventually, the starter solenoid wouldn't work - just a rat-a-tat-tat sound when the starter button was pressed, unless I jump-started it. The UK Guzzi Forum pointed me in the direction of the known poor performance of the Siemans V23703 relays used in this era bike. I replaced them with a set from Pyro Dans -$16.66US posted - problem solved!

Ventura Rack: added for touring. Perfect fit. This Kiwi product is good stuff. Later I bought their sport rack and bag, too, for everyday riding.

Fork Seal: the right-hand fork seal began weeping at 51,000km. Replaced with an after-market seal. (See the workshop pages.)

Headlight Low-beam: this failed as I rode off the Spirit of Tasmania at 7pm! Had to follow Jane's Breva home through the night. Auto replacement bulb.

Engine Temperature Sensor: this is a known problem. I noticed my fuel consumption went up last winter (from 19-29km/l to 14-15km/l) but returned to normal in the summer. On the first cold snap this winter it again went up, engine ran a bit rough and the spark plugs showed signs of running rich. Problem was the engine temperature sensor, located on the RHS cylinder head. When I removed the blue connector, the sensor was loose and could be removed by hand - the bike does have 60,000km on it, so not unexpected perhaps. (Some claim that an air gap exists between the bottom of the sensor and the engine as well, distorting the message to the ECU). Obtained some heat sink compound from my local auto shop (computer shops have it, too), replaced sensor and the bike ran like new! Nickel-based anti seize works, too, I'm told. Check this link out for some pics: http://www.guzzitech.com/Pages/tempsensor.htm

Air Leak: at 63,000km the Stone started hesitaing and surging, but only while cruising or decellerating, and not under high revs or acceleration. Turned out to be air leaking into the rubber boots from the air-box to the throttle bodies. Tightened up the clamps - some tightened up a lot - and problem disappeared. Apparently there is less vacuum when under high revs or acceleration, so the air leak disappears.

Sidestand: well I thought the problem had disappeared! But it came back. Eventually I adjusted the sidestand cutoff so that the plunger was fully recessed when the stand was up. This eliminated the hesitating problem. The plunger had been exposed by about 3/8" since I bought the bike new - who knows how long its been playing up under vibration and road bumps!

2. Breva 750

Fuse failed on first start up a few days after riding in heavy rain. Replaced fuse.

Rear brake light bulb failed twice. Replaced with one from my local auto parts dealer and she's been good as gold.

Indicator bulb blew. Unable to find an auto replacement. The Guzzi one costs $16.00!!!

Side stand: this became very heavy to use and difficult to extend with wet boots. The only way to get grease into the swivel joint is with a toothbrush - more than WD40 is needed. Later I found that a drop of engine oil with the grease really loosened things up. I also put a short bolt through the tang for extra boot purchase.

Pannier sits on RH muffler: this means the hot muffler melts a slight indent into the pannier. The bods who know reckon that the exhaust pipes are out of alignment. I've loosened all the brackets but nothing is going to budge unless I undo the flanges at the cylinder head. Decided to ignore the problem. (Update: see Greg Bender's Moto Guzzi Service Update for a fix to this).

Oil leak: at 55,000km we noticed oil streaming on to the LHS side panel and pegs. Oil traced to LHS cylinder. Thought a gasket had gone but investigation revealed the oil (feeder?) hose on the back of the rocker cover had come loose, allowing oil to run around the fins and blow along the bike. Replaced the clamp.

Fuel leak: at about 60,000km noticed a petrol smell occasionally, then found the top of the battery was wet. Lifted the tank and eventually found that the plastic "Y" fitting, where the fuel lines split to each cylinder, was cracked. Couldn't track down a metal replacement, so obtained the plastic one from a fuel injection shop for a fraction of the price of the Guzzi one. You'll need new clamps from them, too. (The tap from the fuel tank seems to press down on the "Y" fitting, which probably put it under stress."

Moto Guzzi Metal Stone Oil Change

Mackerz — Tue, 22 Dec 2009 00:58:23 CST

My Guzzi was due for its 50,000km service, so I took these pics.

	I bought one of those cheap Chinese-made bike platforms. They're built like a Yangtze girder bridge. It's worth its weight in gold. No more lying on the floor, scrambling under the bike. The bike had just completed a 60km trip, so everything was pretty hot - including all the fluids.
	I begin by dropping all the oils - the engine oil, gear-box and rear-drive oil. (I use three waste oil containers. Cut the sides out of old oil containers. Then you can drain them out of the cap opening.)
	I change the oil every 5000km and the filter every 10,000km. If you don't like changing your engine oil, then you don't love your bike. It's the simplest thing that you can do to prolong the life of your Guzzi.
	The gear box plug is up behind the engine.
	Out she comes. Note how clean it is compared to the rear drive oil (below).
	Undo the gear box filler to let the air in as the old oil comes out.
	Now for the rear drive. This is always messy. Place some alfoil to guide the oil into the container. No matter how hard I try, some of it gets on the tyre. Wipe it off.
	Take the filler plug off to let the air in. If the bike is still hot, you'll find that there is some pressure in the rear drive that will be released as you undo the plug.
	Note the colour. This is the same oil as in the gear box, but the addition of moly turns it grey.
	While the old oil is draining out, undo the middle plug on the gear box. This sets the level for the new oil. Then reinstall the drain plug.
	Usually I use Penrite 80W/90 hypoid oil for the gearbox and rear drive but my auto shop was out of it. I suppose Mr Castrol knows something about oil. Pump it in until it starts flowing out of the hole (above). Let the excess drain away then replace the plugs.
	The Metal Stone handbook calls for 20ml of molykote to be added to the rear drive. Some say that it is no longer needed with modern hypoid (sometimes called extreme pressure) oils. Beats me. I always add it.
	From what I've read, it is very important that the rear drive is not overfilled. The pressure build-up, mentioned above, will blow seals if you over-fill it. Let the excess drain away completely, then replace the plugs. By the way, don't lean into these plugs when you tighten them or the steel plug will strip away the cast aluminium threads. Then you'll be in deep... um, trouble. Tighten them up, then add a nip.
	To replace the oil filter you need to remove the sump. I bought this long hex key from the Snapon website - it fits a 1/4 inch ratchet drive handle - which allows me to access the sump bolts. It is worth slowly collecting the right tools. They make the job a pleasure rather than a pain. There are 14 bolts around the outside of the sump, and four long bolts under it. Don't start belting the sump with a piece of wood or hammer. It will drop off if all the bolts have been removed. Also I use a table lift to support the sump as the last bolts come out. Use a car jack or similar. It will help to position the sump when you replace it, though it's not particularly heavy.
	The sump is off, and the sump gasket is still attached to the engine. This gasket is the original, though I always keep a spare. Note the hose clamp around the filter. I put this on every change now after seeing pictures on the Wildgoose forum of oil filters which have spun off and caused severe engine damage. Imagine how much pressure it takes to force oil through the filter!
	I also check the gauze filter.
	Make sure you clamp up the safety strip afterwards, too.
	Rub some oil on the rubber seal and in the threads of the new filter to ensure that it screws up correctly.
	I've been using Ryco oil filters on my cars and four-wheel drives for 30 years now without problems. Likewise, I been using them on my Guzzi for the past three years, too. I don't buy this notion that only UFI filters should be used on Guzzis. In fact, the only filters I've seen that have spun off and caused engine damage have all been UFIs. This Z418 is the same filter used on the Toyota Landcruiser V8, so it should handle everything that the Guzzi pumps through it. Put a hose clamp on and tighten it up so the screw housing rests against the pressure valve. This will prevent the filter from turning if it begins to spin off.
	Smear a thin coat of grease or oil along the sump where it will contact the gasket. Put the sump back on, with the aid of your jack, and replace the screws. This T-bar allen key, also from Snapon, makes the job much easier. Just spin them on.
	Want to start an argument on a Guzzi forum? What oil should I use and should I put a hose clamp on my filter? I use Penrite Diesel 20W-60. All the good stuff in the way of zinc, etc, for top end protection, high detergency which is called for in the Stone's handbook, and the viscosity to handle cold starts in Victorian winters and long, hot days in the Australian summer. A belly full of this and the Stone's ready to ride. It's so good, I pour it on my porridge instead of milk! Next month we are off to tour Tasmania - motorcycling mecca.

Breva 750 Fuel Filter Replacement

Mackerz — Mon, 16 Nov 2009 01:48:04 CST

There's a very good series of photos and description here:

http://www.photoshopshowcase.com/ViewFlashMedia.aspx?AID=226679&AT=3

I took the tank over to the wood heap and started undoing the pump assembly beneath the tank. As it came loose, I let all the remaining fuel drain out. I then placed the tank upside down on a cardboard box covered with an old blanket in order to remove the fuel pump/filter assembly.

Removing the old clips at either end of the filter was a struggle- you'll need a good set of long-nose pliers or cutters. Check that you put the new filter on in the correct direction - then check again. Take the filter assembly into a hose or electronic fuel ignition (EFI) shop and get a couple of decent clamps. The original clamps are Oetiker Ear Clamps and you can buy a special tool to remove and replace them. BMW fuel line clamps have a good reputation. Compressed air clamps are designed to take higher pressures and would work OK, too.

http://www.oetiker.com/content.asp?l=4&idNavig=17

Replace the assembly - start the screws first through the rubber gasket - then gradually tighten them. I used a socket on a 3/8th screwdriver handle rather than a 3/8th drive ratchet for better feel. Hand tight is all you need. I worked around the 6 screws in sequence, a bit at a time, about thirty times before they were snug.

Replace the tank onto the bike, connect the fuel line, over flow lines and electrical connection, and add some fuel. Check for any leaks, then fire the bike up. Check again. Bolt the tank down and go for a fang. If still no leaks, replace the front plastic grill.

There was a definite improvement after changing the air and fuel filter. On a cold day, it fired up and idled smoothly without the fast idle on!

Breva 750 Tank Removal

Mackerz — Mon, 16 Nov 2009 01:33:58 CST

Remove the black plastic grill at the front using an allen key. Remove the right-hand side panel, too.

Undo the bolt,under the seat,holding the tank down.

Lift the tank gently and place a block of wood under it while you a)disconnectthe electrical line which hides behind the right-hand side panel, and b)disconnect the fuel line.

Take care that the front of the tank does not hit the steering head or you'll chip the paint. Stuff a rag in there first

The front of the tank is seated on a pair of round rubber blocks (situated on either side of the tank). You may have to give a bit of a heave to the rear to get the tank to move if it hasn't been removed for a while.

Think about where you'll place the tank BEFORE you remove it. It isreasonablyheavy and you shouldn't rest it on the front "wings", nor on the fuel tap.

A clear guide to disconnecting the fuel line is here.

http://wildguzzi.com/forum/index.php?topic=26213.msg402698#msg402698

Heated Grips

Mackerz — Mon, 12 Oct 2009 00:35:56 CDT

Here's a link to fitting heated grips to a Guzzi:

http://www.webbikeworld.com/t2/motorcycle-heated-grips/

Breva 750 Rear Wheel Removal

Mackerz — Fri, 25 Sep 2009 18:20:09 CDT

Removing the Breva's rear wheel is fiddly but a 10 minute job. Replacement takes about 15 minutes. The trick is to have good-quality tools and to jack up the rear of the bike for clearance. Our Breva doesn't have a centre stand so I utilize a Bikegrab at the front, and a small table-lift at the rear. A chock of wood on the table-lift slips under the side-stand support bar, so nothing touches the exhaust system.

Begin by removing the left-hand muffler.
	Then undo the brake calliper. (Note the short bolt and washer on the nearby side-stand tang for extra boot "purchase". This can be a bastard to extend when the weather - and your boot - is wet).
	Loosen the axle clamp. (Note the paint marks. If you don't have a torsion bar, these will allow you to tighten the nuts up to where they were, so they'll be within cooee of the recommended values.)
	Undo the axle. You'll need an Allen head on the left and a socket or crescent on the right.

	You may have to drift out the axle with a little persuasion. Put the nut on to protect the thread or use a piece of wood.
	The axle should slide out. You'll have to support the wheel weight. Be prepared for the spacer and the calliper to drop out. Try to catch the calliper so its weight doesn't drop on the fluid line.
	I hang the calliper from a length of wire so there's no tension on the brake line.
	Lift the wheel off the hub. Note the cush-drive rubbers, some of which have fallen out, some are still in the wheel, and some on the drive fingers. Don't worry too much about it - they only fit back in one way. At this stage, or earlier, deflate the tyre. You won't get the wheel out unless you do. All the way down until it's empty!
It's a bloody tight fit! I've found that it's easier to take the wheel out to the right. Vertical height (is there any other?) will help here. You'll need to wiggle the wheel about a bit and the drive fingers will touch the rims. Take your time and don't scratch them. Some owners recommend putting tape on the rim at the contact point - not a bad idea. Keep the wheel vertical and rotate the drive fingers by hand if need be.
Gotcha yer bastard! For some reason, this BT45 had worn badly in just one spot. It wouldn't have lasted the 3000km to Coffs and back. Note the placement of the wood chock. Put the cush-drive rubbers in a safe place - away from dogs and kids!
	The wheel's back with the new tyre. Deflate it completely then feed it into the frame. You're going to have to wiggle around a bit, so take care not to scratch the rim. Keep checking that the wheel is vertical anytime that you meet an obstruction. You may need to use your thumb on the tyre to get it past the shock absorber bolt on the left-hand side. Take care not to scratch the brake disc on the shock-absorber bolt. You may also need to rotate the drive fingers as the wheel moves forward. Be patient and work it through.
	The wheel is in. Now replace the cush-drive blocks. Note how they straddle the radiating vanes. The drive fingers must slip between these blocks. The blocks absorb the power shocks when you accelerate and decelerate. I find it best to sit on a stool, lift the wheel and bring it towards me, aligning the gaps with the drive splines. This, again will need patience and a good light source. The rubber blocks have a tendency to drop out. Once you get the wheel started, the blocks move and resist the wheel as you pull it onto the hub. Carefully rotate the wheel, supporting its weight, and put your thumb in to the available space to push the blocks back into place. The wheel will then slide into place. It takes patience so don't be pushed for time.

Place the spacer into position - you'll have to hold it with one hand - then bring up the brake calliper, ensuring it slips over the disc.

Insert the axle and slide it through. If it hits the rear drive on the right-hand side and won't come through DO NOT belt it with a hammer. It means your wheel is slightly out of alignment. Give it a bit of a wiggle and slide it through.

Put the washer and nut on but don't tighten it yet. Swing the brake calliper up and attach it to the left-hand swing arm - this is easy to forget if you're in a hurry!

Tighten the axle and the clamp at the base of the left-hand shocker. Replace the muffler.

Pump up the tyre!

Give the rear brake a pump and check it again before you go for a fang.

For an alternative method, by removing the right-hand rear shock and the rear drive, check out Anders Holt's photos here.

But read this too.

Home

Mackerz — Sat, 12 Sep 2009 18:06:32 CDT

Cooor.. nice, um, bike. Katrien in Amsterdam. (Proudly nicked from the Davida website!)

(I now understand that this photo was taken by Ben Part and it's his Zagata Guzzi.)

I started these pages for the benefit of others who, like me, had little experience working on Guzzis.
Feel free to add your own pages for any Moto Guzzi model.

I'm self-taught and learned a lot from the following links:

Moto Guzzi Metal Stone Fork Oil Change

Mackerz — Sun, 06 Sep 2009 02:53:58 CDT

The Stone manual recommends the fork oil be changed every 12 months or 20,000km. Mine hadn't been changed for at least 2 years - if the dealer had done it - so I decided to do it myself. It was a bit of a daunting prospect but really quite simple once I started. Once again, a good set of tools makes the job easier. Get a 1/2 inch drive handle, with a short extension, and a set of inhex sockets to replace the Allen keys.

Is it worth doing? Yes. My bike felt tighter and smoother, especially in the corners, after the service. Fork oil deteriorates slowly over time so you don't notice the bike's handling slowly deteriorate. It felt so much better that, from now on, I intend changing it yearly.

This service took me about 4 hours. Now I reckon I could do it all in 1 hour. It's not hard, so have a go.

	Start by removing the wheel, fender and brake calliper. You'll need to jack the front off the ground high enough to get the wheel out. My 1/2 inch drive handle and inhex socket wouldn't reach into the fender bolts so I had to resort to an Allen key. The ring spanner gave me more leverage. Make sure you have a good fit with the Allen key or you'll round off the bolt.
	Lift the fender up, then rotate it to get it out.
	Loosen the top cap before you loosen the fork clamps. Ideally I'd use a ring spanner but I didn't have one big enough - something else to add to the tool rack. The crescent did the job but I had to to put a ring spanner on the end of the handle for additional leverage - make sure you have a good fit on the cap before you apply pressure. If your fork caps are flush with the top of the clamps, you might need to loosen the top pinch bolts so that the caps can be loosened (see next pic).
	Undo the pinch bolts at the upper and lower triple-tree clamps. (Actually, it's easier to loosen these before you jack up the bike.)
	Slip the fork out. I had to lightly prise open the triple-tree clamp to get free movement. (The decorative caps on the bolt heads broke up when I tried to remove them. Some sort of cheap alloy or hard plastic. I'm not going to replace them.)
	Remove the fork cap. As the last thread let's go the cap will jump and inch or so. It won't go flying across the shed!
	Turn the fork upside down and allow the oil to drain out. Catch the PVC tube and spring. The fork oil was a dirty grey. I rinsed the tube out with kerosene and left them standing to drain overnight - a bit over-kill really.

Refill the forks with .560 litres of oil. I used Penrite ATF. (These automatic transmission fluids are commonly used in forks. Most oil company sites will have a recommendation for your bike.)

Pour in half the fluid, pump the fork until it operates smoothly, then add the rest. Replace the spring and PVC tube. I initially had some trouble replacing the fork cap, trying to push it down against the spring pressure and turn it at the same time. It was simpler to push the cap down with the heal of my right hand and turn the fork with my left hand. Tighten it up with the crescent as much as you can.

Replace the forks. You'll probably have to prise open the clamps sightly again. The bottom of the forks will easily swivel around to allow you to replace the fender and wheel.

At the top clamp, get the fork position right then tighten the triple-tree clamps. The cap should be smidgeon above the top clamp, I found, because tightening the bolts on the triple tree will prevent the cap being tightened. Tighten the fork cap, then ensure that all the bolts are tight.

Replace the fender, wheel, brake calliper and go for a test ride.

Umm...do check the front brake before you go!!!!

Moto Guzzi Breva 750 Air Filter Replacement

Mackerz — Tue, 25 Aug 2009 23:01:56 CDT

These pictures were taken by Anders Holt and recently displayed on the Wildgoose Chase Forum. Anders has offered them to me for this page and I have used his text. I've added some of my comments in brackets.

Replacing the air filter is easier if you remove the tank. This involves removing the plastic grill at the front, pulling the tank back, then lifting it at the front. You can then disconnect the overflow lines. Once they're disconnected, you can swivel the tank around at will while you disconnect the fuel line.

The electrical connection is behind the right-hand side cover, so you should remove the cover first so you can see which connection has to be detached.

Replacement of the tank is the reverse.

I had to snip a tie under the bike which restricted the movement of the overflow lines so that I could pull up a bit of slack to attach them to their nipples. Taking it slowly I reckon less than half-an-hour to remove, and again replace, the tank.

	The PITA has been pulling the gas hose from the tank. Actually it's very easy. Just apply pressure on the grey locking-ring pressing backwards, same direction as pulling the hose off. You can soak the lock with some kind of dry PTFE-lube first. Pressure is easier to apply if you use an appropriate C-spanner or the sides of a nose-plier. Be gentle, though, tank-pipe is plastic, and probably quite easy to break. The tank will hold the fuel when disconnected. [The lock came off fairly easily, but I still don't know if I was pulling or pushing at the time! No fuel spilled out. I suggest an almost empty tank, because you will need to balance the tank while you fiddle. I had to take the side cover off the right-hand side of the bike to detach the electrical connection.]
	When the tank is off, you can enjoy your Tonti frame in daylight. Make sure you have some padding on the front edge of the tank when trying to lift the rear to get at the fuel coupling or you could chip the tank's paint on the steering head.
	To follow up the tank-demount I took some pictures when changing the air-filter as well. I would say it is a need to demount the tank as a first step, or you are going to go serious nuts if you try to do the change without. This is the right end to begin - the lid on the air-box. [I agree. Take off the tank because it allows more light in and gives you more room.]
	4 stainless Ph2-screws to unscrew. I usually will demount the rectifier for better clearance. - 2 x 8mm bolts. [I agree again. A short Phillips-head screwdriver might be needed here, too. Even with the rectifier demounted, I couldn't get clean access to the screws, as Anders appears to have here.]
	You cannot pull the lid on the right side - space isn't sufficient. Do not forget to loosen the drain-hose on the downside of the lid. [He's right. The guy who designed this didn't have to work on it! But I found I could leave the hose attached, move the lid to the right as much as possible, and remove and replace the filter from the left. In retrospect, and next time, I'll use Ander's method.]
	Left side will work. Barely. [Yep. She's tight.]
	...and there it is.
	Filter is mounted in a frame. Check right direction when mounting.
	Time to mount.... [I found that the frame and air filter didn't slide in very easily. A fair bit of pressure was required. I gave the airbox a good clean with a rag and sprayed the slide and the runners with Inox, a non-sticky lubricant. Also, you need to get it all the way in or the lid won't fit.]
	.....when I'm at it; I've mounted the *Stebel Nautilus* horn on the left side, just covering the gate to the air-filter lid. Not very clever. I think I'll manage to put it away under the tank front-cover on the right side instead. Both horns will work simultaneously. I feed them through a relay. The horn? Ohh - you can hear it. Even inside a car enjoying the new stereo-speakers....

Breva 750 Clutch Cable Replacement

Mackerz — Mon, 24 Aug 2009 01:29:26 CDT

Instructions and picsavailablehere:

http://wildguzzi.com/forum/index.php?topic=26371.0

Moto Guzzi Breva 1100 Oil Change

Mackerz — Mon, 24 Aug 2009 01:26:42 CDT

Here's a link to Chris Galardi's pages:

http://cwpg.blogspot.com/2009/06/moto-guzzi-breva-1100-gearboxshaft.html

Moto Guzzi Breva 1100 Oil Pressure Sender Unit Replacement

Mackerz — Mon, 24 Aug 2009 01:26:02 CDT

Here's a link to Chris Galardi's pages:

http://cwpg.blogspot.com/2009/06/replacing-guzzi-breva-oil-pressure.html

Moto Guzzi Metal Stone Tappet Adjustment

Mackerz — Wed, 17 Jun 2009 02:19:02 CDT

The beauty of the transverse (yeah -that's another argument) Moto Guzzi V-twin is the easy access to the cylinders for tappet adjustment. I remember watching my father adjust tappets on early model Holdens but, otherwise, I'm self taught. But I wouldn't have had the nerve without the help of Big Daddy. If that little four year-old can do it, so can you! The tappets should be checked every 10,000km. These pics were taken prior to our 3000+km return trip to Coffs Harbour, NSW.

	Start by removing the rocker covers. A 5mm T-bar Allen key makes the job much easier. I ordered mine online from the Snap-On site.
	Remove the spark-plug. You'll have difficulty fighting the engine compression if you don't.
	The gasket has come off, undamaged, with the rocker cover. You may have to give the cover a tap with a rubber mallet or piece of softwood. Note how clean the inside is. When I first removed the covers 20,000km ago, the inside was coated with white smegma which, I'm told, is caused by the engine doing short trips and not heating up the oil enough to remove condensation. The dealer used Motul. Well, my Guzzi doesn't do short trips. It does long trips at highway speeds. The shortest trip it does is 35km. I've switched over to Penrite Diesel 20w-60, much beloved by Harley drivers, and the problem has stopped. (The orange discolouration around the screw holes is from the copper-eze which helps prevent the threads binding - more on this later).
	Remove the rubber plug from the flywheel housing so you can see the teeth on the flywheel.
	Remove the cover from the alternator and using a suitable socket or ring spanner, rotate the alternator clockwise (as we're looking at it now).
	This what you're looking for. The 'D' is the timing mark for the right-hand side [from Latin for dextrous - a right-handed person] and the 'S' is the mark for the left-hand side [from sinister - a left-handed person. We're not allowed to burn them at the stake anymore]. These can be hard to see so you might need a torch or turn the bike so sunlight enters the hole. Note the notch on the right side of the hole for alignment. Turn the alternator until the cylinder is on the compression stroke. If you're like me, you'll probably have to rotate it several times until you're satisfied. Place your thumb over the spark-plug hole and you'll quickly determine if the piston is compressing! It's very obvious. Or place a straw in the spark-plug hole and watch it rise and fall to top-dead centre.
	This is NOT a timing mark. Guess how I figured that out! I wasted some time trying to understand why the tappets weren't playing the game
	When you're on the right stroke, both rockers will be open. Check for .10mm on the inlet side and .15mm on the outlet side. I look for a tight fit on the feeler blade. I've checked mine three times now and they haven't needed adjustment.
	Give the gasket and cylinder head a wipe. Just as my Dad taught me, I run a THIN smear of grease on the gasket, barely discernible, and place the cover back on the cylinder head.
	Prior to replacing the screws and the spark-plugs I put a thin coat of copper-eze on them. This will make them easier to undo next time. Replace the bolts. Everyone has a different technique for doing them up. I work a cross-wise pattern initially, then around sequentially. The aim is to tighten them all in an even manner so as not to warp the rocker cover and cause a leak.
	I've reused the same gaskets now for three checks. But buy a couple of spares before you commence work

Moto Guzzi Metal Stone Cush Drive Check

Mackerz — Sat, 14 Mar 2009 03:07:04 CDT

At 48,500km I put a new Bridgestone B45 on the rear and thought I'd check the condition of the cush drive. These are a set of rubber wedges mounted in the hub which absorb the shock of acceleration and deceleration, protecting the drive train.

	I placed the wheel on top of a car wheel to protect the brake disc.
	Undo the safety tab, which locks the split ring in place.
	I found that a pair of needle-nose pliers enabled me to draw the ends of the spring together. The spring is recessed into the surrounding hub, locking the cover plate securely into place.
	The pliers and a thin screwdriver lifted the spring out. It's not under a lot of tension, so it won't decapitate you!
	The rubber wedges were clean, with no evidence of water entering the drive. At this stage you could remove, clean and rub some grease lightly over the drive blocks. Mine were fine so I gave everything a bit of a wipe and reassembled the drive. You have to push the cover plate back on firmly to allow a gap for the spring to set back into the flange.

Moto Guzzi Metal Stone Fork Seal Replacement

Mackerz — Sat, 14 Mar 2009 03:04:14 CDT

At 51,000km the righ-hand fork of my Stone began weeping. I decided to have a go at replacing the seal myself. When I bought the new seals, the Guzzi mechanic said that 50,000km was pretty good going for a heavy bike. The job took me 3 hours, including full removal and replacement of the fork, seal, wheel, windscreen, mudguard, etc. I took my time but could now do it in half that time, I reckon.

	The tell-tale signs of a worn fork seal. Rings of grime where dirt meets weeping fork oil. Closer examination show fork oil spatters on the fuel tank and crash guard.
	Remove the fork and drain the oil.
	The dust cover can be levered up with a knife blade.....
	....then a broad-bladed screwdriver. Slide it off the fork stauchion.
	A wire spring-clip sits in a groove above the seal to hold it in position.
	It comes out - and goes back in - simply; you don't need circlip pliers, a screwdrive will do.
	Up end the fork and remove the bolt. This was in very tight and I eventually had to place the fork leg in the vice and put a length of pipe on the Allen key for leverage. When the bolt comes undone, a teflon plunger will slide out of the fork staunchion, so be prepared for it and catch it. This now frees up the staunchion which can be slid out of the lower fork leg. [I found out later that there is also a washer with the bolt. Mine must have stayed up there because there hasn't been any leaks.] [I now stopped taking pictures because everything was really greasy with fork oil!] Remove the old seal. This took some time. I used a broad-bladed screwdriver and slowly worked around the seal. I put an old leather glove on the edge of the fork leg to protect it as I worked around. Eventually, and with patience so that I didn't scratch the inside of the fork, the old seal moved up and then came free. (You can buy a tool for this job which is bent, for leverage, and has a rounded end so you can't scratch the fork. I've been told that a bike tyre-lever works well, too.)
	Now replace the stanchion and the teflon plunger and replace the bolt in the bottom of the fork leg. The new seal came with some special grease so I gave it a good coating and slid it over the staunchion and down to the lower fork leg. (Use fork oil if you don't have any grease). You need to seat the seal evenly so I took the seal into my local hardware store and bought this piece of PVC pipe which fitted perfectly. I found the best technique was to lift the lower leg with my left hand and hold the PVC with my right, and drop the leg on to a cloth-covered wooden stool, letting momentum do the work (like putting a sledge hammer head onto a new handle). Only a two or three gentle drops were needed. Replace the spring-clip, then the dust cover using the momentum method.

Refill the fork, reassemble the bike, then go for a test ride. And check the front brake with a few pumps of the handle before you do. I didn't....but I certainly will next time!

Moto Guzzi Metal Stone Air & Fuel Filter Change

Mackerz — Sat, 14 Mar 2009 02:52:58 CDT

The air and fuel filter replacement, which I did as part of my 40,000km service, took me 1.5 hours. I'd expected it to take a lot longer. The task is straight forward enough - just fiddley. When I received my fuel filter in the mail, it didn't have new crush washers so I had to wait for those to arrive, too. Make sure you order them at the same time.

	Start by removing the tank bolt. You'll need to lift the tank to access fule lines and electrical connections.
	Disconnect the fuel line at the petcock.
	It was dry and no fuel came out.
	Lift the rear of the tank and pull it back. Support it with a wood block. Disconnect the two electrical leads to the petcock and fuelgauge. They are colour coded - one is red (hidden beneath the tank) and the other is black, so reconnection is straighforward.

	Pull the tank back. It rests on rubber stops and can sometimes be hard to move if it hasn't been removed for a while. Disconnect the fuel line on the front of the filter. Reach under and pull off the thin fuel overflow line. Both of these took a bit of tugging and twisting, but went back on more easily. If you have trouble with the fuel line, you can get a bit more access by undoing the banjo bolt attached to the fuel filter (just under the screwdriver tip).
	Remove the tank.
	Remove the air filter lid.
	Obviously the filter has being doing its job.
	You'll need two spanners to undo the fuel filter - a 19mm and a 22mm. I ended up loosening the filter clamp to allow the filter to rotate slightly for easier spanner access. I stuffed some rags under the filter to soak up any spilt petrol. Only a bit came out of this front one, but the rear one leaked a couple of tablespoons. I spent 5 minutes poking a screwdriver and rag around soaking up petrol. So stuff some rags under there. Then some more rags. Then some more rags.
	As I undid the final filter fitting I was still concerned whether the filter could actually be removed and replaced in such a small space. I had to slide the filter clamp off and the filter came out easily.
	New fuel filter in place. There's not much room in there for the fuel filter. With your fingers, rotate the filter onto the rear fitting, then tighten it up with your spanners before doing up the front banjo fitting. Don't forget the new crush washers and the filter clamp before you reattach the hoses.
	Air filter in place.
	To help ease the tank back on, I sprayed some lanolin grease onto the tank bumpers - which didn't work - so rubbed some lanolin grease onto them. Then I replaced the tank: replaced the overflow line first; then the front filter line the electrical connections for the petcock the petcock fuel line It helps to keep the rear of the tank lifted with a piece of wood at this stage.
	A colleague with an EV suggested I take off the fuel cap receptacle and check it for rust - which I found! A common problem apparently. I'm still not sure what to do about it.

Moto Guzzi California Fuel Cap

Mackerz — Sat, 14 Mar 2009 02:06:06 CDT

The plastic in the Cali fuel cap has a tendency to swell over time, at best making it difficult to unlock, and at worst leaving you stranded, unable to put fuel into the tank. This happened to my Stone and I used the following procedure to fix it.

Take note of the relationship of the pin and other parts by putting a mark on the pieces. Remove the pin from the cap and disassemble it.

Using a big bastard, file the surface of the plastic where it meets the alloy. This plastic is damn hard, so spend a good 10 minutes or so at it so you don't have to do it again.

Reassemble and check it works. If it doesn't, you've inserted the pin 90 degrees out of whack, so pull it apart and do it again.

(Photos were taken by John Ulrich and posted on the Wildguzzi forum.)

Breva 750 Swing Arm Removal

Mackerz — Wed, 24 Dec 2008 17:03:49 CST

While I had the rear wheel out for a tyre change, I decided to grease the splines of the rear drive. When removing the rear drive from the Breva 750, it's easy for the drive shaft to be pulled along and dislodge the uni-joint from the spline at the back of the gear box. This is what happened to me.

It required the swing arm to be removed in order to access the shaft to re-attach it. Sounds daunting but it was surprisingly easy and really only a 20 minute job to get access, and similar to re-assemble. You need to gain access to the swing arm "pins", the threaded sockets holding the swing arm. This means removing the metal footrest panels.

	Begine by removing the seat, plastic side panels, disconnecting the rear shockies and rear brake. Rest the swing arm on a stool or block of wood. Remove the 4 bolts holding the right panel. Don't remove the bolt holding the rear brake lever. One bolt is longer than the others so remember where it goes. There's no need to remove all the brake lines, etc., but you may need to snip some cable ties. I found that only the brake light lead needed to be disconnected (near finger). I then placed the panel on some rags on the floor to prevent scratches.
	Remove the left hand panel. This has the seat latch connected to it - just move the panel forward and tie it to the seat frame. Go to the right hand side and undo the hose clamp around the rubber boot which protects the universal joint.
	You can then access the swing arm pins. Remove the chrome nuts which cover the pins. At this stage you might like to measure how much each pin is proud of the frame - ours had a 1 mm difference so I reassembled it that way. Another assembly technique was told to me later and described below. Now undo the pins with an Allen key. The swing arm is now free. There is a spacer washer on the right hand side, so locate it and ensure it goes back on. To gain complete freedom of movement, I removed the two cable clamps under the swing arm which held the brake line and speedo cable. Note the short length of the sleeve on the end of the uni coupling which slips onto the gear box pinion. The drive shaft only has to move an inch and it's off! You can now inspect the back of the gear box, too, for any sign of oil leaks. It's also a good time to clean the back of the gear box, lubricate the clutch operating lever and the gear change linkages.
	The whole point of this exercise was to grease the pinions, so give everything a thorough greasing. I use Penrite lithium-based extreme pressure grease. Reassemble the drive shaft onto the back of the gear box, slip the swing arm back on, and screw the swing arm pins back. Screw the LEFT hand side pin in until the spacer on the right hand side is taken up and the pin is just firm. Then screw in the RIGHT hand side pin until it is just firm. Replace the lock nuts. Replace the rear drive, and put the wheel back on loosely. Reassemble the brake line clamps, panels, etc. Reassemble the rear shockies, wheel, brake, etc. Finally, check if there are any left-over screw, bolts, nuts, etc!

Moto Guzzi California Centre Stand

Mackerz — Sat, 06 Dec 2008 16:06:38 CST

Here's a link to photos and description for fitting a centre stand:

http://groups.msn.com/TheMotoGuzziPeople/techadvice.msnw?action=get_message&mview=0&ID_Message=103&LastModified=4675423091663415568

Breva 750 Valve Adjustment

Mackerz — Sat, 06 Sep 2008 18:45:41 CDT

Valve adjustment on the Breva 750 is straightforward. The main problem is lifting the rocker covers far enough out of the way so you can do the adjustments. They have oil lines attached to the back which restrict movement. These are held on by clamps which, in my case, weren't very tight so the lines came off. I simply pushed the lines back on but later replaced the factory-fitted clamps with proper radiator-type clamps.

The gaskets are very brittle so get a couple of new ones before you start. To date I've only had to replace one. I used some gasket gunk to keep the gasket attached to the rocker cover when it is lifted off, and smear some grease on it when the cover is replaced.

Here's a link to a pdf file - about 1 meg - with pics and description of how to do the adjustment.

Pexi's Breva 750 Valve Adjustment