The Stone manual recommends the fork oil be changed every 12 months or 20,000km. Mine hadn't been changed for at least 2 years - if the dealer had done it - so I decided to do it myself. It was a bit of a daunting prospect but really quite simple once I started. Once again, a good set of tools makes the job easier. Get a 1/2 inch drive handle, with a short extension, and a set of inhex sockets to replace the Allen keys. Is it worth doing? Yes. My bike felt tighter and smoother, especially in the corners, after the service. Fork oil deteriorates slowly over time so you don't notice the bike's handling slowly deteriorate. It felt so much better that, from now on, I intend changing it yearly. This service took me about 4 hours. Now I reckon I could do it all in 1 hour. It's not hard, so have a go.


Refill the forks with .560 litres of oil. I used Penrite ATF. (These automatic transmission fluids are commonly used in forks. Most oil company sites will have a recommendation for your bike.)

Pour in half the fluid, pump the fork until it operates smoothly, then add the rest. Replace the spring and PVC tube. I initially had some trouble replacing the fork cap, trying to push it down against the spring pressure and turn it at the same time. It was simpler to push the cap down with the heal of my right hand and turn the fork with my left hand. Tighten it up with the crescent as much as you can.

Replace the forks. You'll probably have to prise open the clamps sightly again. The bottom of the forks will easily swivel around to allow you to replace the fender and wheel.

At the top clamp, get the fork position right then tighten the triple-tree clamps. The cap should be smidgeon above the top clamp, I found, because tightening the bolts on the triple tree will prevent the cap being tightened. Tighten the fork cap, then ensure that all the bolts are tight.

Replace the fender, wheel, brake calliper and go for a test ride.