These pictures were taken by Anders Holt and recently displayed on the Wildgoose Chase Forum. Anders has offered them to me for this page and I have used his text. I've added some of my comments in brackets.

Replacing the air filter is easier if you remove the tank. This involves removing the plastic grill at the front, pulling the tank back, then lifting it at the front. You can then disconnect the overflow lines. Once they're disconnected, you can swivel the tank around at will while you disconnect the fuel line.

The electrical connection is behind the right-hand side cover, so you should remove the cover first so you can see which connection has to be detached.

Replacement of the tank is the reverse.

I had to snip a tie under the bike which restricted the movement of the overflow lines so that I could pull up a bit of slack to attach them to their nipples. Taking it slowly I reckon less than half-an-hour to remove, and again replace, the tank.

	The PITA has been pulling the gas hose from the tank. Actually it's very easy. Just apply pressure on the grey locking-ring pressing backwards, same direction as pulling the hose off. You can soak the lock with some kind of dry PTFE-lube first. Pressure is easier to apply if you use an appropriate C-spanner or the sides of a nose-plier. Be gentle, though, tank-pipe is plastic, and probably quite easy to break. The tank will hold the fuel when disconnected. [The lock came off fairly easily, but I still don't know if I was pulling or pushing at the time! No fuel spilled out. I suggest an almost empty tank, because you will need to balance the tank while you fiddle. I had to take the side cover off the right-hand side of the bike to detach the electrical connection.]
	When the tank is off, you can enjoy your Tonti frame in daylight. Make sure you have some padding on the front edge of the tank when trying to lift the rear to get at the fuel coupling or you could chip the tank's paint on the steering head.
	To follow up the tank-demount I took some pictures when changing the air-filter as well. I would say it is a need to demount the tank as a first step, or you are going to go serious nuts if you try to do the change without. This is the right end to begin - the lid on the air-box. [I agree. Take off the tank because it allows more light in and gives you more room.]
	4 stainless Ph2-screws to unscrew. I usually will demount the rectifier for better clearance. - 2 x 8mm bolts. [I agree again. A short Phillips-head screwdriver might be needed here, too. Even with the rectifier demounted, I couldn't get clean access to the screws, as Anders appears to have here.]
	You cannot pull the lid on the right side - space isn't sufficient. Do not forget to loosen the drain-hose on the downside of the lid. [He's right. The guy who designed this didn't have to work on it! But I found I could leave the hose attached, move the lid to the right as much as possible, and remove and replace the filter from the left. In retrospect, and next time, I'll use Ander's method.]
	Left side will work. Barely. [Yep. She's tight.]
	...and there it is.
	Filter is mounted in a frame. Check right direction when mounting.
	Time to mount.... [I found that the frame and air filter didn't slide in very easily. A fair bit of pressure was required. Maybe some graphite powder might have helped, or a good clean with a rag. Also, you need to get it all the way in or the lid won't fit.]
	.....when I'm at it; I've mounted the Stebel Nautilus horn on the left side, just covering the gate to the air-filter lid. Not very clever. I think I'll manage to put it away under the tank front-cover on the right side instead. Both horns will work simultaneously. I feed them through a relay. The horn? Ohh - you can hear it. Even inside a car enjoying the new stereo-speakers....