Removing the Breva's rear wheel is fiddly but a 10 minute job. Replacement takes about 15 minutes. The trick is to have good-quality tools and to jack up the rear of the bike for clearance. Our Breva doesn't have a centre stand so I utilize a Bikegrab at the front, and a small table-lift at the rear. A chock of wood on the table-lift slips under the side-stand support bar, so nothing touches the exhaust system.

Begin by removing the left-hand muffler.
	Then undo the brake calliper. (Note the short bolt and washer on the nearby side-stand tang for extra boot "purchase". This can be a bastard to extend when the weather - and your boot - is wet).
	Loosen the axle clamp. (Note the paint marks. If you don't have a torsion bar, these will allow you to tighten the nuts up to where they were, so they'll be within cooee of the recommended values.)
	Undo the axle. You'll need an Allen head on the left and a socket or crescent on the right.

	You may have to drift out the axle with a little persuasion. Put the nut on to protect the thread or use a piece of wood.
	The axle should slide out. You'll have to support the wheel weight. Be prepared for the spacer and the calliper to drop out. T ry to catch the calliper so its weight doesn't drop on the fluid line.
	I hang the calliper from a length of wire so there's no tension on the brake line.
	Lift the wheel off the hub. Note the cush-drive rubbers, some of which have fallen out, some are still in the wheel, and some on the drive fingers. Don't worry too much about it - they only fit back in one way. At this stage, or earlier, deflate the tyre. You won't get the wheel out unless you do. All the way down until it's empty!
It's a bloody tight fit! I've found that it's easier to take the wheel out to the right. Vertical height (is there any other?) will help here. You'll need to wiggle the wheel about a bit and the drive fingers will touch the rims. Take your time and don't scratch them. Some owners recommend putting tape on the rim at the contact point - not a bad idea. Keep the wheel vertical and rotate the drive fingers by hand if need be.
Gotcha yer bastard! For some reason, this BT45 had worn badly in just one spot. It wouldn't have lasted the 3000km to Coffs and back. Note the placement of the wood chock. Put the cush-drive rubbers in a safe place - away from dogs and kids!
	The wheel's back with the new tyre. Deflate it completely then feed it into the frame. You're going to have to wiggle around a bit, so take care not to scratch the rim. Keep checking that the wheel is vertical anytime that you meet an obstruction. You may need to use your thumb on the tyre to get it past the shock absorber bolt on the left-hand side. Take care not to scratch the brake disc on the shock-absorber bolt. You may also need to rotate the drive fingers as the wheel moves forward. Be patient and work it through.
	The wheel is in. Now replace the cush-drive blocks. Note how they straddle the radiating vanes. The drive fingers must slip between these blocks. The blocks absorb the power shocks when you accelerate and decelerate. I find it best to sit on a stool, lift the wheel and bring it towards me, aligning the gaps with the drive splines. This, again will need patience and a good light source. The rubber blocks have a tendency to drop out. Once you get the wheel started, the blocks move and resist the wheel as you pull it onto the hub. Carefully rotate the wheel, supporting its weight, and put your thumb in to the available space to push the blocks back into place. The wheel will then slide into place. It takes patience so don't be pushed for time.

Place the spacer into position - you'll have to hold it with one hand - then bring up the brake calliper, ensuring it slips over the disc. Insert the axle and slide it through. If it hits the rear drive on the right-hand side and won't come through DO NOT belt it with a hammer. It means your wheel is slightly out of alignment. Give it a bit of a wiggle and slide it through. Put the washer and nut on but don't tighten it yet. Swing the brake calliper up and attach it to the left-hand swing arm - this easy to forget if you're in a hurry! Tighten the axle and the clamp at the base of the left-hand shocker. Replace the muffler. Pump up the tyre! Give the rear brake a pump and check it again before you go for a fang.

For an alternative method, by removing the right-hand rear shock and the rear drive, check out Anders Holt's photos here.

But read this too.